OHAYO Biscuit オハヨー ビスケット : Quaint Kyoto Cafe selling Traditional French Sweets

Ohayo Gozaimasu!

What a rare find to chance upon a cafe owned by two ladies that bakes their own countryside French sweets! Pies, tarts, poundcakes, animal cookies...these old-fashioned rustic treats are arranged in front of the kitchen without any flamboyance to speak. It's simple, minimalist, just like any Japanese kitchen. 

There's only a counter table that sits 3 customers at the same time so it won't be such a nice thing to hoard the seat for too long if there are customers around. While I love those sophisticated entremets from posh cake boutiques, I also adore these humble, down-to-earth pastries that bring a sense of warmth to my heart. I had the popular Carrot Cake in the shape of a peculiar cylinder frosted unevenly with cream cheese.  

It probably did not look as attractive as those classic carrot cakes and it was a nightmare for me to find no more cream cheese inside the cake! Look how much a habitual animal of cream I've become!


But the cake itself was actually not too bad. It must have been the least sweetest carrot cake I've ever eaten in my life and the blend of spiced cinnamon was subtle at best. Some people might complain that it's too bland but the more I taste, the more I got accustomed to the simplicity. It was the perfect sweetness for me. The cake was tender but could be less dry and crumbly. 

I guess the baking philosophy here was "less is more" but I still wish there was more cream cheese. Since its named "Ohayo Biscuit", I couldn't leave without the signature Raisin Sandwich, a chunky block of sable cookies prised with buttercream and raisins. It looked like a tasty jigsaw puzzle to me but the sheer thickness made it less crispy than the superior ones from Hokkaido and quite difficult to chew as well. 

If they could serve a complimentary glass of hot milk or chocolate with the cookies, it will be perfect for dunking.

Ohayo Biscuit

〒602-0923 京都府京都市上京区中立売油小路東入油橋詰 96-2

11am-6pm daily (closed on Mon, Tues)

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うめぞの Cafe & Gallery Kyoto: Best Matcha Hotcakes

Those who are frequent travelers to Tokyo might be familiar or aware of the famous 梅園 Umezono in Asakusa which sells traditional Wagashi. There's also a traditional Wagashi house called 梅園 Umezono in Kyoto (actually more than one if we count all its outlets) but it is not affiliated to the Tokyo counterpart. 

The one in Kyoto was established in Kawaramachi and has opened several outlets, including this うめぞの Cafe & Gallery (pronounced as "u-me-zo-no) which is targeted at the younger crowds with a menu that includes hotcakes, French toast and raw gluten parfaits. 

In fact, I first learnt about this place through the Matcha Hotcakes (¥930/¥1330 with drink), which I have always assumed was pancakes until I actually arrived at the cafe and scrutinized the description on the menu. I didn't expect much as the pale green colors weren't appetizing at all. 

I was totally wrong. This was the BEST hotcakes I've ever had. The two pillowy stacks come with azuki paste and azuki butter which melted gradually under the heat of the pancakes. 

Instead of a pair of fork and knife, chopsticks were served and I finally knew the reason--the hotcakes are so soft and cloudlike that chopsticks alone will do the trick. The matcha taste was pleasantly mellow and  nothing too sweet here even if you have emptied the maple syrup. Even if these were not matcha-flavored, I am very certain I would still love it.

Any trip to Umezono would not be a completed without their signature Mitarashi Dangos which happened to be my favourite Wagashi too. But the grilled rice skewers were too firm and over-chewy, nowhere comparable to the ones from Mitarashi dango near 下鴨神社 even though the sweet soy sauce was tasty. 

Expect to wait a while for the Hotcakes to be ready but it's obviously worth the wait. And I'll be back for the Black Sugar French Toast next time. 

うめぞの Cafe & Gallery
180 Fudocho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture 604-8215, Japan
11.30am-7pm daily (LO 6.30pm)
http://umezono-kyoto.com/cafe/

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Fat Lulu : Kickass Food with an Attitude

If you are after barbecue or grilled meats, chances are you will head to a western steakhouse or Korean BBQ house. But what if you prefer a mixup with a more eclectic selection of foods? 

Fret not, there's Fat Lulu. 

Opened by the same founders of Five & Dime, Fat Lulu is a truly hip eatery whose kitchen is run by two #Samsong chefs of opposing personalities. Chef Sam is the BBQ dude who enjoys burning his food because #noburnnotaste while Chef Song is the cool-headed dude who doesn't joke at making desserts that #tastesdope. 

There's no wafting smoke or raucous sounds of inebriation inside, but the space is full of spontaneity yet welcoming. 

The one-page dinner menu is concise and straight to the point. It's divided into three sections--vegetables, seafood and meats--with literally no carbs at all except for the Roasted Potato and Mushrooms ($12). 

Ooh yes, don't be surprised that even a humble dish like this offered intensely vivid splashes of flavors, thanks to the wicked use of lamb fat that must have permeated the potatoes and reduced it to a perfect softness #eatfirstdietlater
Ok, that's not the true story for the adventurous date with Fat Lulu as we played cheat by ordering the Open Beef Ravioli ($22) #notlagsania, a special dish off the printed menu. 

It can be easily mistaken as Japanese Omurice but actually ravioli sheets layered with carrot cream, spinach and red-wine Braised shortribs. 

For me, there's nothing short of revolutionary when I get a deconstructed dish that tasted unpredictably good and even better than a classic version. #mammamia 
To start, we had some small, elegant plates such as the Burnt Asparagus to warm up the bellies. For the burnt corn, there's a deep and special sweetness unlocked by salt, oregano, hot coals and time. 

But at Fat Lulu, the meats are undoubtedly the top picks for the fire magic. Take for instance the Sataytay ($12). Somewhere in between the soft sweet fat of the Iberico pork trimmings and sambal marinade lies a gustatory intensity no where to be found in satays or pork skewers elsewhere. 

The Duh Meat Board  ($28) is #likeduh dish one should order because it exemplifies the noble philosophy of burnt food. The wagyu skirt adopts a low char burn for a nice caramelized skin with succulent juices to boot while the Sambal-marinated Pork Collar is exposed to high heat, burnt in such a fast and furious way that it transformed into sweet caramelized char siew! But of course, the way Chef Sam prepared it was different from char siew. Even the bitterness of the soy dashi-glazed Kailan was burnt away to a crunchy crisp. #nomercy 

This place shouts Asian barbeque but don't come expecting the dishes to be as spicy as your sambal stingray. That said, you still get a numbing sensation from the Ikan kabar--fresh parrot fish seasoned with chilli oil, garlic and ginger paste, Kashmir chilli powder and tumeric--neutralized by a refreshing burst of cucumber achar at the side. #cleaneats 

But that's only half the story of Fat Lulu. There's an excellent repertoire of sweets created by Chef Song who used to deliver his dose of happiness at Grand Hyatt, Halia Restaurant and Raven. In fact, I applaud the move to give half weightage of the menu to desserts because that section is often overlooked or simply neglected. 


For those who fancy zesty or fruity flavors, get both the Pineapple and Coconut Ice Kachang ($14) and Berries & Chocolate ($16). But as a creature of comfort food, I'm head over heels for the warm Banana bread in Brandy Butterscotch Sauce ($14). Moist and tender, the cake was not too sweet and complemented perfectly with the Coconut ice cream. 

And there's the Apple Tarte Tartin ($14) born by mistake when the chef burnt the base of his vanilla ice cream. Even though the apple tart tarte Tartin wasn't as "burnt" as I would love it to be, smoky bitterness of the smooth ice cream provided a counterpoint to the sweet richness of the baked apples. 

Looking back, it is really hard to find a place these days that win me over with both savoury and sweet. Indeed, the bromance chemistry of wacky duo must have spilled over to their cuisine and a return is a must. #pigoutforbrunch

Fat Lulu Singapore
297 River Valley Road Singapore 238338
Sun-Thur 6pm-11pm
Fri& Sat 6pm till late
Brunch:
Sat & Sun 11am-4pm
Closed on Mondays
http://www.fatlulus.sg/

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喫茶 la madrague : The Legendary Giant Egg Sandwich Since 1945

Oh my god...what s*** did I land myself into for ordering such a huge sandwich? I didn't expect the legendary Kyoto egg-sandwich to be such a monstrous size. I'm sure you must be laughing at the photo and thinking "Very Big meh?" OH YES, IT IS! Probably the biggest of your life. 

Of course, I myself had seen photos of the egg sandwich and they all looked so petite. But now I know photos can be so deceiving because one piece alone is bigger than my fist! Look closely, the plate covers almost the width of the table. Of course, there's no issue with the mega portions if someone's sharing with you. 

Beyond this size, this is not just another ordinary egg sandwich. It's the legendary Corona Sandwich invented by now-defunct Showa Cafe "Corona" that has won the hearts of local Kyoto people for years since its opening in 1945. 

Although it also sells other Japanese western food like pork cutlet and Napolitan pasta, people queued for the egg sandwich. There was so much love that the closure of "Corona" in 2012 caused an uproar and strong calls to revive the sandwich. 

It was during this period when the current owner of La Madrague, 三四郎, got the opportunity to learn the recipe from the 96-year old owner of Corona and continue to serve this beloved "fuwa-fuwa" sandwich in his retro coffee shop La Madrague. 

And the taste is as nostalgic as the space. Unlike Songbird's egg sandwich that is slathered with kewpie mayo, the fluffy soft shokupan (white bread) is simply dressed in a thin spread with tomato sauce. 

God knows how many eggs are used but the egg-milk mixture which is cooked by the steaming method, produces such a wonderfully wobbly texture that still hold its shape well without being too scrambly. 

There's a kind of umami depth in the eggs which works a little like Chawanmushi, a huge contrast from typically flat-tasting western or Chinese omelette. It was surely delicious and the tomato sauce provided a much-desired tangy sparkle to keep the tastebuds awake. 

But I won't say it's out-of-the-world kind of egg sandwich. I still prefer Songbird's version but I guessed that's a matter of personal preference and .... age :P 

The owner recently opened its first branch cafe outside Kyoto right in Kagurazaka, Tokyo and now hovers between the two cities to manage the shops. But I highly recommend anyone to come to Kyoto for the original flavor. 

One reason being that the ambience of this location makes this nostalgic experience complete. The 1950s American movie posters and magazines from the postwar era makes you feel as if you are stepping into another era, a pretty free-style and hippie one. 

That said, it also means that someone may just lit up a cigarette halfway through your meal.

Opening Hours:
1130-2000 (Lunch Hours 1130-1500)
Closed on Sundays

〒604-0035 京都市中京区押小路通西洞院東入ル北側

http://madrague.info/index.html

https://m.facebook.com/lamadrague.kyoto

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Ollella : Delicious Choux Heaven in Singapore

Many cake shops or dessert places in Singapore tend to ride on the bandwagon of food trends such as salted egg yolk lava or colorful pancakes but very few have looked into old-school pastry such as eclairs and choux. There is, of course, places like Tart by Cheryl Koh that focused on tarts, as well as L'eclair and Kumoya which turned humble eclairs into colorful statement pieces. 

But for a place that specializes in chouquettes, Ollella is probably the first in Singapore and the first that does it so well. I was glad to have the opportunity to check out this place with @fundamentally_flawed because it restored my hope in the local pastries just when I thought that everyone was too focused on Instagram-worthy stuff and neglect the actual quality.

Ollella is named after the owners, Ollyvia and Marcella, who are sisters of Indonesian parentage. These upside-down choux pastries are the creations of the younger sister, Ollyvia, who used to work at The Peninsua Chicago Hotel and underwent a three-month stint at the prestigious Pierre Herme in Paris a year before opening this shop. Meanwhile, the front service and operations affairs are managed by Marcella, a bubbly personality with corporate marketing experience.

Some might described this as "haute-coute" desserts but I begged to differ because there's a kind of simplicity and intimacy in each of these these 5-cm hollow airy pate a choux are armoured with a delicate craquelin shell. Piped full of creams and custards, there's little not to like in the combination of crunchy, aromatic and creamy.

Presentation wise, they might be a notch below those lightning eclairs but these darlings are gorgeous in my eyes. Prices are eminently affordable and satisfaction guaranteed. It's the next place after Dulcet & Studio that I would recommend for excellent cream puffs.

Our unanimous favourite was the Dark Chocolate, a black ugly duckling that sat right at the corner of the display choux. Yet this was everything a chocolate choux should be ― a perfectly formed, chocolate streusel that crunched loudly in the mouth, oozing forth an exquisite balance of hearty and rich 72% dark chocolate cream. At $4.50, this is the perfect plebeian pleasure.

The Matcha Azuki ($4.50) also hit the spot with a forthcoming tea taste that wasn't ruined by sugar. That said, the amount of red beans could be too much of a good thing to handle, even for those who love their azuki.

Other flavors include bright and tart Lemon Meringue ($4) which could afford a subtle burnt flavor of the meringue had been torched. My friend who don't fancy rose and lychee found the seasonal Lychee Rose ($5) here to be acceptable because the rose Chantilly was only lightly scented with floral notes. Just be warned that the lychee creameux hold no barriers in its fruity sweetness.

Last but not least, there's the Apple Cinnamon ($4) which offers varied textures just like the Dark Chocolate. It's stuffed with cinnamon-infused Apple compote, vanilla streusels and Madagascar vanilla mascarpone cream. Even those who fear cinnamon will find it easy to be acquainted with this choux.  

Apart from chouquettes, it also sells mini chouquettes in plain, chocolate and curry flavor. There's also a 20-layer Kueh Lapis Legit (from $38/600g or $1.50/slice) made based on their grandmother's recipe. Party-sized choux tarts are also available but a minimum 24-hour advance reservation is required.

Despite being new to the scene, Ollella has chalked up a fair share of experience at pop-up stalls with exclusive creations such as the Moon Choux series during the Mid-Autumn festival. With a confident mastery of the craquelin and Pâte à choux, Ollella definitely makes the cut as one of the best patisseries in town.  

Ollella Chouquettes ・Gula
Residences @ Somme
3 Petain Road, #01-01
Singapore 208108
http://ollella.com/

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Patisserie Tendresse パティスリー タンドレス : No.1 Cake Shop in Kyoto

The quest for the best cake shops in Kyoto brought me to Tendresse, the highest ranked patisserie on tabelog. But a visit to this place isn't as easy as it seems. First, it only opens 3 days a week (Sat/Sun/Mon). Secondly, it is not located in any major train stations so one has to transfer a few times before reaching Ichijoji station. Thirdly, the shop believes in producing cakes in small batches so be prepared for everything to be sold out (or maybe left with 1 choice) even if you reach within 2 hours after the opening hours. 

Perhaps when things are harder to get, the stronger the desire to get it. This place has been on my list since N years ago and I finally could make a solo trip down. The pastries are rooted in traditional French style and thus the flavors can be rather assertive at times. For instance, the use of fig confiture in Charlotte Figs was slightly too cloying and sweet to my liking, even though the mousse was excellent. I would love a gentler approach to this romantic autumn fruit.

The Mango Basil was an impactful cake because it was alarmingly bright and tangy. My favourite was the Singapour, not because it sounded just like Singapore, but because the flavors were well-orchestrated like a beautiful symphony. The smooth red tea Bavaroise was paired with milk chocolate mousse with a kick of whisky at the back. The texture of the mousse was velvety but still a notch below Hidemi or Yuji Ajiki. I would also prefer a soft moist genoise sponge to a biscuit sponge which tends to dry out easily. 

Beyond the cakes, what left me with the deepest impression was the warm hospitality of the old lady who helmed the front line with a few younger ladies. She never fails to make her customers feel at home and even apologize profusely for the lack of cakes for those who had travelled all the way to the shop. Despite such good business, none of the staff put up any airs and such friendliness was rare to come by, not even at top names like Hidemi Sugino or M.Koide. 

If I ever drop by the district, I'll probably make a detour to the shop, say hi to the old lady and have a piece of cake. 

Patisserie Tendresseパ ティスリー タンドレス 
京都府京都市左京区一乗寺花ノ木町21-3
Nearest Station : 一乗寺 Ichijoji
Takeout :11.30-18:00
Eat In :13:00-19:00
http://www.kyotocake.com/

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Gomacro : A Kyoto Cafe for all Sesame Lovers

Don't you love sesame?

Being a huge fan of sesame, I was elated to discover this casual cafe that specializes in all things sesame when I was walking along the streets of Karasuma Oike. 

Gomacro is a casual cafe produced by Yamada Seiyu, a third generation manufacturer of sesame oil whose mission is to protect the mothers who play an important role in raising the pillars of future generation. As such, one can expect that the food here is designed to be healthy, organic and gluten-free. In fact, you can see it as a vegetarian place as the food is free of meat, dairy, eggs, artificial colouring, chemicals, preservatives and even white sugar! 

My main agenda wasn't trying to be healthy (though it feels good to know that the food here is healthier than other places). I wanted to check out the signature white curry rice (¥1000) because I never had white curry before. The curry roux is made by slowly grinding white sesame and almonds by hand using a stone mortar, resulting in such a smooth and thick gravy that was full of nutty aroma. 

The spice here is non-existent and adding splashes of Sesame Rayu (Sesame chilli oil) contributed more to the aroma than taste. But still, I enjoyed the curry tremendously and thought it was a great delicious pairing indeed to go with the black sesame multigrain rice. 

For sweet ending, I had the duo of soymilk and black sesame icecream which was served with homemade sesame granola cookies. I couldn't say if I love the ice cream or the granola more but we all know that creepy crunchy bits can be very addictive. 

But the good thing is that their products from edible stuff like sesame oil, sesame paste and granola to cosmetic skincare items are retailed at the entrance of the cafe. The second level is a kitchen where cooking lessons on healthy organic food is conducted. 

Gomacro 

京都市中京区神明町67-3（御池新町通り南東角）

11.30-19.00 (Closed on Mondays, every 2nd and 4th Tues of the month)
http://www.gomacro.jp/cafe/

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Kumoya : Japanese-French Desserts As Light as Cloud

Kumoya is the latest artisanal dessert place in town that offers Japanese-French pastries such as eclairs, yoghurt parfaits and pancakes that are as cloud-light as its Japanese name (meaning "cloud" house) aptly implies. 

In fact, it is no coincidence that the presentation and concept reminds one of the now-defunct Karafuru because this place is opened by the same owner who has reshuffled the kitchen and management affairs. With a wider menu that includes savoury items, the owner hopes to to widen the appeal to the masses, including firms looking for a place to host its corporate parties and also halal customers in the near future after it received its halal-certification.

New highlights include the savoury pancakes with a Japanese twist such as Karaage Chicken pancakes and bite-size snacks. The tempura soft shell crab pancake was quite a sight to behold with lots of things going on in a plate; tempura capsicum, tempura soft shell crab, tempura cereal crunch, brûlée pineapples, mixed salad, with a triple stack of savoury pancakes buried all underneath. 

The moreish fritters went hand-in-hand with the wasabi mayo but I'm hesitant to say they were on good terms with the pancakes which could ranked as one of the few better executed ones in town. That said, I can imagine how delicious it would be if I had the Butter & Maple ($8.90) instead because the test-and-tried sweet savoury formula is hard to go wrong. 


New items aside, most people may still question the difference between the Kumoya and Karafuru. Recipes have been fine-tuned and the frilly elements are stripped off to showcase the theme flavors. For instance, the Matcha Yoghurt Parfait ($15.90), which formerly assumed the form of Matcha Jasmine, is now purely done in matcha. I missed the crispy Matcha Langue de chat which has been replaced by saccharinely sweet matcha macaron but the concept of a 和風-style matcha dessert is visibly reinforced with larger helpings of tsubu-an (coarse red been paste) and matcha financiers. 

Of course, this naturally implied that the sweetness has racheted up a few notches, but thankfully the tangy yoghurt soft serve placed it under well control. That said, a pure matcha syrup instead of matcha Creme anglaise might work as a better candidate because the taste of matcha here is as elusive as that of the iced matcha latte.

Those looking for something sweet but more substantial can opt the same buttery pancakes served with yoghurt soft serve. We had the Tiramisu ($15.90) which was kissed by a shot of cold espresso instead of the usual Baileys or other alcohol. But I didn't felt shortchanged at all because the interplay of flavors and textures in the presence of fudgy yoghurt brownie and crumbly chocolate sables made this a delightful treat especially for people like me who enjoy coffee in my desserts. 

The eclairs have now been downsized for customers to try more flavors in a sitting. As pretty as they used to be, I would prefer if the choux pastry can be more tender and less dry. With 12 regular flavors to choose from, I would recommend you to go with your personal favourite flavors.  

At $3 per piece, these dainty gems would make an impressive gift when you get them in 3-pc/6-pc/12-pc box. The size of the eclairs might draw some flak but on a positive light, you will less likely over-indulge and leave this place feeling as light as cloud.  

Kumoya
8 Jalan Klapa Singapore 199320
Tue-Fri/Sun 12pm-10pm 
Sat 12pm-10.30pm
Closed on Mon
FB: www.facebook.com/kumoyasingapore
IG: @kumoyasingapore

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Inoichi 猪一 : Kyoto's Bib Gourmand Ramen that Deserves a Star

If hawker food in Singapore is one of the cheapest Michelin star, then ramen will be the Japanese version of cheap Michelin star gourmet food

With over 100 Michelin-starred restaurants in Kyoto, ramen seems to be the poor man's gourmet compared to kaiseki or any innovative French or Italian cuisines. After all, Kyoto isn't as well known for ramen compared to Hokkaido or Kyushu. However, in the most recent Michelin Guide released for Japan last year, there were 3 ramen-ya that were awarded Bib Gourmand in Kyoto. 

One of them was Inoichi but it isn't the ramen shop with the highest ranking on Tabelog, a review site more commonly used by the locals. In fact, I wasn't attracted to the ramen when I saw the pictures posted online because it looked pale and plain. How can anything like this ever be tasty? 

I was wrong. Depth and clarity coexisted in the broth of their signature bowl, Shina Soba (¥800). It was so clear that you could see through to the thin, springy noodles below. But the taste wasn't flat but full of umami, thanks to the clever use of bonito and kelp to build the foundation of the dashi. 

There's a choice of white or black shoyu for the broth and I instantly opted for the white shoyu. Unlike the ramen that I've had previously, the soup had a very clean taste of sweetness that could possibly be explained by the fact that no fats/oil from any four-legged animal or artificial flavoring or MSG was used. I slurped the soup in delight and true enough, I didn't feel thirsty at all nor suffer from any MSG attack. 
Although some oil globules could still be seen floating on the soup, I suspect those could be coming from the slice of charsiu, which was so soft and tender. Even the choice of pork was well taken care of. Inoichi uses 京の都もち豚, (Kyo no Miyako mochi Buta) a premium local brand of pigs that is known for its fine meat quality and even fats.

It is served with finely-sliced yuzu peels in a small dish that diners can add according to their preference. What made this ramen place more special than others is the condiments. 

There's free flow Tororo Konbu, a kind of seaweed that turns soft and slimy once in contact with liquid. Usually eaten with hot rice, it's actually my favourite stuff but I'm surprised that it paired so well with ramen and enhanced the umami of the broth. Not to be missed is the 黒七味 and 一味, spices that added mild heat to the ramen. 
Besides the ramen, I decided to go for one of the dons as it looked to good to be missed. The Charsiu Don (¥500/+¥100 for akadama) came with generous slices of grilled pork belly but I found them too chewy and the lean meat was scarce. But the rice, the subtly sweet meat sauce and the yolk melded so beautifully together that I finished all. 
Now as I reflect my meal, I must have lost my mind to order another bowl of carbs. Anyway, the queue isn't that bad if you avoid the late hours. I arrived at 6.30pm but waited only for 20minutes on a weekday. By the time I left, the queue got longer but it doesn't look like it will drag to 3 hours. This isn't any dingy, hole-in-the-wall ramen-ya and the staff were very friendly. 

猪一 Inoichi
京都府京都市下京区恵比須之町528 エビステラス 1F
528 Ebisunocho, Shimogyo-ku
1F Ebisu Terrace, Kyoto
Tues-Sat 11.30-1400, 1730-2200
Sun 11:30-1400, 1730, 2100
Closed on Mondays (Tues if Mon is a PH)
https://tabelog.com/kyoto/A2601/A260201/26022436/

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